how to sew swatches of hair from the instructor in the art of hair work 1867

For sewing a switch on points, after weaving, take Berlin cord, about one-sixteenth of an inch thick, and tie a solid knot at the end, and sew the end of the weft to the knotted end of the cord; then wind the weft around the cord, as shown in cut, the length of point desired, turning the end of the cord over to form a loop. Cut the weft according to the number of points desired in the switch. 

Edwardian sented hair powder

Now during the time of the Gibson Girls hair washing was recommended to be done once every one or two weeks. Some women would even go as far as not washing for a month! You would suspect they would create a powder of some sort to lessen the greasiness. The name of the powder is     Poudre d'Iris.

  

   6 lb powdered orris root

   4 oz powdered bergamot peel

   4 oz powdered acacia flowers

   1/4 oz powdered cloves

Apply the powder in the evening before sleeping then the next morning remove the powder the next morning with a fine toothed comb.

victorian head dressing styles from the book art of hair work by mark campbell

promenade head dress-
Comb the front hair between the temples straight back, over a cushion of crimped hair, forming a Chignon; then make two braids of two small switches, and place one of them over the top of the Chignon, and the other across the forehead, forming a diadem, turning the ends under; then comb the hair from temples over the braids, and put back under the Chignon, and fasten. Place a net of pearl or gilt beads over the Chignon, as in cut. You can use false hair for covering cushion, if desired.


reception head dress-
Curl the hair across forehead, or use false curls, combing the hair straight back, and form a chignon of curls at the back. Place a diadem plait across forehead, and raise the hair from the temples over the plait. Trim with roses and ribbons, or to suit dress.


soriee head dress-
Comb the hair straight back between the temples, tie it, and curl the ends, or use a set of long false curls. Place a diadem plait, made from a switch, across the forehead; then comb the hair back from the temples, over the ends of the plait, twist it, pass it back under the curls, and fasten firmly. Use a fancy back-comb on top of curls, and pin an ornament to diadem plait, with feather and chain attached, as in cut, or trim to suit dress.

grand evening party head dress-
 Make a parting over the head, from ear to ear, two inches from front; on the forehead, between the temples, curl the hair in small friz curls, and from the temple to the ear, make loose puffs. Divide the hair in three partings over the head, and roll each in a large puff; then form a large puff of the back hair, round the nape of the neck, as in cut. Fasten a large set of loose curls over the puff, with a comb or other ornament.


empress head dress-
Make a front parting, and a cross one from ear to ear. Divide each side into five parts; of the front parting make three puffs on each side. The remaining four make into long puffs, The back hair may be arranged in the same style of puffs, or with a double Chignon, placing a single, long false curl or braid, back of each ear. Trim with orange leaves, or to suit dress.


parisian head dress-
Comb back the hair from the forehead between the temples, make a large puff on the temples, and three puffs above each ear. Place a cushion at the back of head, and comb the hair over it, forming a chignon; then place a diadem plait, or twist, made from a large switch, round on the top of head, trimmed with leaves or ribbon, as shown in cut.


Apollo head dress-
Crimp the front hair, and raise it over the temples with a puff comb. Comb the hair just above the ear back, and friz the ends, and curl the back hair in large flowing curls,


the modern head dress-
Part the hair from temple to temple, one inch from front, comb it up on the forehead, and curl the ends in small snap curls; then comb the hair back from the temples, and form a loose puff. Make three partings across the head, and form a puff of each. Of the back hair, make a braided or plaited chignon, with a few friz curls underneath; then make two puffs back of the ear, as shown in cut. Wear a fancy comb or band over the top of chignon.


evening promenade head dress-
First crimp all the hair, then place a cushion high up under the hair at the back, forming a chignon, and friz the ends of the hair from ear to ear under the chignon. Tuck the hair high up on the forehead, place bands of ribbon over the head with a net at the back, and bring the hair above the ear up, and fasten to the ribbon. Pin a ribbon streamer to the net, as in cut.


shepherdess head dress-
Separate the hair across the head from ear to ear, three inches from front, and roll it in puffs . Do up the back hair in a double chignon, either with your own or false hair; add a set of false curls underneath the chignon, extending from ear to ear. Trim to suit dress with leaves, flowers and ribbon,


court head dress- 
Make a parting over the head from ear to ear, two inches from front, and form a row of nine small puffs over the forehead. Comb the remaining hair back, and divide into four partings around the head, and form each parting in a large puff, as in cut. Add a few small friz curls and orange blossoms between the puffs.


young brides head dress-
Comb the hair back and place a set of small loose curls across the forehead; place a diadem plait over the top of the curls, and comb the hair off the temples over the ends of the plait, and form a chignon or bow of the back hair, and place a three-strand braid around the chignon, made either from the ends of hair from the temple or a switch. Add a crown of white blossoms and a veil,


Neapolitan head dress-
Part the hair from front to crown, and from ear to ear; crimp the front, and braid the ends in a three-strand braid, and trim the ends with ribbon. Either braid or twist the back hair, and form into a coil. Place a small plait across the forehead,  Deck the hair with flowers or beads, to suit the occasion.


   
art of hair work book at- http://www.gutenberg.org/files/38658/38658-h/38658-h.htm

Hair care by Every Womans Encyclopaedia 1912

"Hair Should be Cleansed, not by Frequent Washing, but by Frequent Brushing - Hair Oils - Hot Irons for Curling the Hair - The Physiology of the Hair
Although the health, vigour, and beauty of the hair depend largely upon careful and constant attention to its needs, its physiology has, until recently, been very imperfectly understood."
"The growth and structure of the hair form a most interesting study. Each hair consists of a root and shaft. The former is situated in the skin, the latter projects from it. The hair-sac, or depression in the skin from which the hair grows, consists of two layers, the inner layer being cellular and epidermic, and the outer layer fibrous.
Within this sac the hair takes root, forming at its lower end a bulb. At the bottom of the hair-sac, or follicle, there is a little projection called the papilla, supplied with blood-vessels and nerves, which enters the hair-bulb and forms, really, the germ of the hair.
The hair therefore grows entirely from the root, from this minute papilla. The hair itself is of fibrous substance. Outside it has a thin, scaly surface (termed the hair-cuticle), and in the centre is the core, or medulla. The outside surface consists of minute flat scales, which overlap each other somewhat after the manner of roof-tiles. This explains the well-known phenomenon of the hair feeling rough when drawn between the fingers in one direction, and smooth when drawn in the opposite direction. The medullary substance of the hair is a kind of pith composed of loosely formed cells and air-spaces. These air-spaces, however, though numerous in white hairs, are almost entirely absent in black hairs.
Nutriment, gloss, and pliancy are furnished to each hair by means of sebaceous oil-glands situated on each side of the hair-bulb, which secrete a greasy fluid. The oily matter which is formed in the sebaceous gland is discharged into the hair-follicle, and thus upon the surface of the hair. Some of the secretion extends over the skin, making it soft, and thus preventing it from becoming hard and dry."

Edwardian dandruff cleanser and remedies

-five ounces of bay rum
-one ounce of olive oil
-one ounce of tincture of cantharides
  Mix in a sealable bottle.


  It is advised to freely add sweet oil to the hair for lessening dandruff.
     and then washing the hair with warm water and castile soap or the "green soap"
of the pharmacy. If the dandruff is really bad apply an ointment of oxide and zinc.